DESIGN and THE ARCHITECT at PHILLIPS LONDON




If it is significant relics from the 20th century (and some of the 19th century) you are seeking, you will be delighted to hear that London is currently blessed by three exhibitions and forthcoming sales by two prominent auction houses.

Today’s feature will look at the first two sales A-Gent of Style saw this week. Advance warning: not only are there in this feature incredibly beautiful and exceptional objets that discerning collectors will undoubtedly snap (Max Ingrand’s mirror in big diamond-shaped mirrored and cut glass is a sight to behold) but also a Polar Bear on the loose.


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Last Wednesday saw the preview of two important sales coming up next Tuesday, April 29, at Phillips. A-Gent of Style attended the evening drinks reception at Howick Place’s vast headquarters gathering significant and rare pieces never seen together before. Ranging from furniture, drawings, buildings, models, lighting and equipment from the 19th, 20th and 21st century, the pieces cover the Arts & Crafts, Wiener Werkstätte, Art Deco, Modernist and Bauhaus design periods.

Not too dissimilar to Artcurial’s Design of the 20th C sale last May in Paris (reviewed here), A-Gent of Style was delighted to be re-acquainted with some of his favourite designers and ensembliers such as Royère, Ruhlmann, Adnet, Dupré-Lafont, Giacometti, Ponti, Ingrand, Perriand, Jeanneret, Prouvé, Henningsen, Fontana Arte, Borsani, Lelii to name but a few amongst the vast selection of eminent game-players of last century’s design scene. An absolute treat for A-Gent of Style, self-proclaimed 20th century design junkie.

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This Design sale comprises 214 lots. Jean Royère’s important and unique ‘Tour Eiffel’ extendable dining table circa 1963 has the highest estimate at £300,000 – 400,000, followed by Diego Giacometti’s ‘Carcasse’ low table ‘petit modèle à la chauve-souris’ circa 1979, estimated at £200,000 – 300,000.
And joy of joy, there is an appearance of a Jean Royère ‘Ours Polaire’ sofa, circa 1952, estimated at £200,000 – 300,000 which will be a great addition to our ever-growing Polar Bear retrospective.

You can view the full catalogue here.


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The second sale, ‘The Architect’, was created and curated by American starchitect Lee Mindel (who gave a brilliant talk at the beginning of the evening about his curation), and brings together some of the best designs by architectural stars from the past two centuries in 103 lots. It will celebrate the contributions architects have made to our environment through the furniture, objects, and equipment they’ve invented in response to the buildings they’ve conceived.

Carlo Mollino’s unique and monumental ceiling light, designed for the Casa Orengo, Turin, 1949 is estimated at £220,000 – 280,000 and Jean Prouvé’s demountable entry lodge, from Ferembal, Nancy, circa 1943-1944, has a low estimate of £180,000 – 240,000.

You can view the full catalogue here.


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Here are A-Gent of Style‘s snapshots regrouping both sales. Viewing is still in full swing at Howick Place, SW1, today 12pm-6pm and then up until Tuesday 10am-6pm. Both auctions, which will be straight after each other, will start at 2pm. Happy bidding!

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– Image courtesy of Phillips –





“A CLOSET OF CURIOSITIES” BY SASHA BIKOFF




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Today, A-Gent of Style would like to introduce you to his new designer crush and rising star of design, Sasha Bikoff. A few days ago, Domaine, the brilliant American online design site, revealed the latest and beautifully curated project of the precociously talented 25-year-old American designer, a 4700-square-foot apartment in Manhattan iconic Dakota building on the Upper West Side.


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Similarly to Nicky Haslam’s new London apartment featured here last week, Bikoff’s total renovation for her client’s new abode is permeated with a fascinating mix of eclectic styles, invigorating colour vibrancy (who wouldn’t want to wake up in a Ladurée-coloured jewel box?), a feminine and glamourous touch, and a bold, fresh and whimsical approach (“I think that people are very afraid to use color and opt for neutrals because it’s safe.” Bikoff says). Once again, there is no sense here of trying to impress and show off but simply a chic yet relaxed environment that captures the client’s personality and lifestyle. Ravishing bespoke hand-painted wallpapers by De Gournay and furniture and objets such as Milo Baughman cantilevered barrel chairs and a French bronze palm chandelier by Bagues, scoured and sourced from international antiques stores and auction sites such as 1st Dibs, rub shoulders and are happily juxtaposed next to less valuable pieces from retail design darlings like Chippendale armchairs from Jonathan Adler or a cotton rug by Madeline Weinrib.

A-Gent of Style was particularly taken by the intense royal blue lacquered walls of the study (see his retrospective here), the wonderfully happy colour combination of melon and mint green in the dining room (the green ikat-ey fabric on the settee is rather wonderful too), the malachite print echoed throughout the dressing room (brilliant use of electric blinds on the wardrobes), the ultimate elegant boudoir look of the master bedroom (a lilac scheme Hamish Bowles would most probably fall for) especially the verre eglomisé effect on the bed posters, the curved corners of the ceiling in the sitting room and the Moorish gold radiator grilles amongst others.



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– Photos by Domaine and Sasha Bikoff –






EGG-XCELLENT




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Here is a selection of beautifully crafted chocolate eggs made by top patissiers such as Pierre Hermé and Alain Ducasse, mixed up with Pysanki, Ukrainian Easter eggs, decorated with superb traditional folk designs, some of them rather primitive-looking, using a wax-resist (batik) method. The word pysanka comes from the verb pysaty, “to write”, as the designs are not painted on, but written with beeswax. A-Gent of Style couldn’t help thinking that some of their patterns would make terrific fabrics. Wouldn’t you agree?

Wishing my A-Gentees a happy chocolate-induced Easter.


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DESIGN GRAND SLAM: NICKY HASLAM AND HIS NEW LONDON SANCTUM



 

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Six months have gone now since A-Gent of Style met Nicky Haslam at an evening party (the only one A-Gent was attending that night, Nicky’s second by 9pm…) organised by House of Hackney, the maximalist hipster design visionaries, in their fantastic Shoreditch showroom (designed by the brilliant MRA who specialises in high-end retail interiors) where the flamboyant decorateur extraordinaire and inveterate socialite was invited with Biba founder Barbara Hulanicki to chat about their lives and careers. Ensconced in one of the brand’s sofas – upholstered in Palmeral, one of their iconic 1970s fabulously kitsch prints, the two raconteurs and storytellers entertained us with their delightful stories and anecdotes in a very informal and relaxed way as if they had invited us in their sitting room to have a banter and a cuppa  (except that we were sipping champagne).

It is then and there at the drinks reception that Nicky Haslam told A-Gent of Style that he had just finished redecorating his new London flat and that he had just moved in, which, as you would imagine, piqued his interest greatly.


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It was only last weekend that Haslam’s apartment was finally revealed to the world in an exclusive feature of the New York Times T Magazine,one of A-Gent of Style‘s favourite design publications in recent months, for their Spring Design issue
(Joseph Dirand’s Paris apartment and the houses of decorator expats in Tangier are a treat). And as expected, it did not disappoint. Bland, featureless and unrefined are not epithets often used to qualify Monsieur Haslam’s interiors. Actually they never are. Elegant, sophisticated, relaxed, also audacious, unique and certainly kitsch, maximalist, dramatic and theatrical are superlatives that best describe and are commonly used for this great decorative aesthete whose incredible career spans more than five decades and whose slew of clients would make the red carpet at the Oscars look like a symposium of cinephile First Year students at Bognor Regis University.


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You can view the full article here but in the meanwhile, A-Gent of Style will say that he is really taken by the overall glamourous look of Haslam’s apartment, its whimsicality, theatricality, floridity and eclecticism (bespoke items rub shoulders with antiques and Oka pieces – Haslam has a furniture range with the English design firm) particularly the Christian Bérard-esque irregular lines of the painted wall panels, the faux-marble fireplace surrounds, the oversized white plaster ceiling light (Giacometti-inspired possibly but most probably created by Philippe Anthonioz or Stephen Antonson. Do get in touch if you have the answer!), the built-in fretwork hutch, the faux-bamboo green walls (framed with a lovely coral braid), the doors painted in different colour on either side (green and blue gets A-Gent every time! Check it out here), the painted floor à la Jean Cocteau in the entrance hall, the camp rococo baldaquin bed à la Dorothy Draper, partly fabric partly plaster (did you spot the duvet was tied to the bed footboard? Brilliant), the dark green, low Chinoiserie ceiling light and of course the diverse objets, especially the plaster reliefsthat look as if they had been taken out of the Soane museum.

But more importantly, the lack of Haslam’s concern for following decorative rules
(if there is such a thing), his rejection of conventions or of what people might think, his irreverence, audacity but also rarefied style echoing many decorative but also artistic and cultural references (is that frame above the fireplace really inspired by a Cocteau rather than a Dali!?) are a true breath of fresh air to A-Gent of Style in this saturated world of taupey, soulless and unimaginative interiors, and of course a great source of inspiration that made him think aloud “that’s what interior decoration is all about”. Let’s hope you will concur!



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– Photographs by Simon Upton for T Magazine of the New York Times –





ZE GENTLE-MALE: JEAN PAUL GAULTIER RETROSPECTIVE AT THE BARBICAN



 
“I must be honest and say I didn’t want to do an exhibition at first. I thought that exhibitions were for those who are dead. And I am very much alive.”

– Jean Paul Gaultier –


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Having grown up in France as a teenager in the late 1980s and early 1990s, Jean Paul Gaultier was omnipresent in the media and soon become a household name. Then at the apex of his career with the iconic conical bra and corsets Madonna wore during her 1990 Blond Ambition World Tour, sailor apparel (A-Gent of Style now regrets disposing of his collection of Breton T-shirts), bewitching adverts for Classique (A-Gent‘s sister has solely worn this perfume since its inception two decades ago now) and later Le Mâle (A-Gent spent a lot of his pocket money on its fantastical limited editions bottles) through to the phenomenon that was Eurotrash when he moved to London in 1997, the enfant terrible of fashion has been on A-Gent of Style‘s cultural radar even since and somewhat made a lasting impression on his life with his unbridled creativity, imagination, theatricality, originality and of course humour (his French accent in English is also rather incomparable).


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Forward to last Wednesday and The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier:
From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk
opened at the Barbican, the first major exhibition devoted to the celebrated French couturier in the UK. Dubbed fashion’s enfant terrible by the press from the time of his first catwalk shows in the 1970s, Jean Paul Gaultier is arguably one of the most important fashion designers of recent decades. This phenomenal world tour to eight cities and theatrical installation of around 165 cutting-edge couture and ready-to-wear garments – more than one million visitors in North America and Europe have already seen it – explores Gaultier’s fashion world, from his witty and boundary-pushing designs to his ceaseless interest in society, identity, a beauty borne of difference (“Perfection is relative and beauty is subjective”) and the timelessness of his creations (none of them stuck in a particular era or time capsule).

Jean Paul Gaultier said : “I am super excited that the show is coming to London for two reasons. The first reason is that I always want to go to London, because London, for me, is a special place. In England I’ve got so many memories and I’ve had so many experiences and the English were the first ones to come to my shows and appreciate my fashion. If there is one place other than Paris that I should like to live in, it is London. I’ve got so many connections with London and feel at home there, even sometimes more than Paris. I like the spirit, the humour and little adventures that were funny, like Eurotrash. The second thing is the Barbican. It’s an honour for me because it’s a wonderful gallery and a wonderful place with extraordinary architecture and I think that showing my work there will be beautiful.”

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Celebrating the designer’s daring inventiveness, The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk traces the influences that have marked Gaultier’s creative development from the streets of Paris to the DIY aesthetic of punk or fantasies of science fiction. It includes eight thematic sections; The Odyssey of Jean Paul Gaultier, Punk Cancan, Muses, The Boudoir, Metropolis, Eurotrash, Skin Deep and Urban Jungle. The exhibition also features a wealth of photography by collaborators such as Miles Aldridge, David LaChapelle, Peter Lindbergh, Pierre et Gilles, Herb Ritts, Stéphane Sednaoui, Cindy Sherman and Andy Warhol as well as footage of catwalk presentations, concerts, music videos, films and dance performances. Other highlights include the Spitting Image puppet of Jean Paul Gaultier, on show for the first time in a UK gallery and dramatic metre-high Mohawk head pieces especially created by renowned hair stylist Odile Gilbert .

Designed as an installation rather than a conventional fashion retrospective,
this theatrically staged exhibition in a city at the heart of Gaultier’s creativity promises (and delivers) to be “bigger and better than ever”. It presents pieces created between 1970 and now, many of which are on show in Britain for the first time. The influence of and passion for British street culture that played on Gaultier’s life and consequently his creations are both tangible here (the maestro of camp and vamp has been coming to the UK for decades). It features over 30 custom-made mannequins wearing remarkable wigs and headdresses by Odile Gilbert that come alive, thanks to video projection, with interactive faces, surprising visitors with their lifelike presence (some smile, wink, speak or even sing!). Pure genius.

 

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Last Tuesday before the opening to the general public, A-Gent of Style was privileged to spend the entire day and evening for the media preview courtesy of both Catherine Ince, curator at the Barbican (whom A-Gent interviewed last December at the Sleep event for the Pop Art exhibition she co-curated) and Roche Bobois (see his feature on their Jean Cocteau collection here) delving for hours into Gaultier’s fascinating and unique world. The packed programme was a delectable series of events spread across the day which comprised a morning talk between the curator Thierry-Maxime Loriot from the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts and Jean Paul Gaultier himself (which you can view partly on Youtube here), an official photocall, the opening of the exhibition, a refreshment break mid-afternoon with limited edition éclairs by French bakery Paul customised with edible French Breton stripes, a fascinating fragrance symposium with genius French nose Francis Kurkdjian who created Le Male aftershave, Harper’s Bazaar’s Jo Glynn-Smith in her incredibly glamourous Prince of Wales suit, the curator and Jean Paul Gaultier himself who surprised the audience by gracing us with his presence in the last twenty minutes, a pause at the Bar Gaultier specially created for the show offering fashion-inspired cocktails (A-Gent of Style sampled a Oh la la, for the sake of research only, of course) and surrounded by sponsor Roche Bobois furniture from the inventive and playful new Gaultier collection, and finally a private view in the evening with a speech from the tireless Gaultier.



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A-Gent of Style was in awe of the couturier all day and felt very privileged to not only be part of this exciting event and to discover the incredible wealth of the couturier’s career now spanning three decades but also to meet a delightful, generous, charming, warm, naughty, witty, hilarious, humble, down-to-earth, self-deprecating man with an enviable and relentless positive energy.

So come and enter now with A-Gent of StyleFrom ze Sidewalk to ze Catwalk’,mes petits filous”:


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Gaultier Pop Up bar at Barbican furnished with Jean Paul Gaultier furniture designed for Roche Bobois_1024x1024_500KB

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– All photos by A-Gent of Style





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