Rumours were rife in the world of la mode lately but the news were finally confirmed on Wednesday morning by LVMH chairman and CEO Bernard Arnault: Marc Jacobs is leaving Louis Vuitton to focus on his eponymous brands, Marc Jacobs and Marc by Marc Jacobs. Yesterday was the final show of the 50-year-old American designer which brings an end to a 16-year-long tenure at the brand. Jacobs was appointed creative director of Louis Vuitton in 1997. He is responsible for having introduced Vuitton’s ready-to-wear line, turning the brand into a global powerhouse. A-Gent of Style must admit he has indulged a few times in some of his creations. Prior to his ‘reign’, the label was known only for its fusty leather goods and luggage line. 

Like his first show for ‘LV’, the extravagant Victoriana show, staged inside a tent in the centre courtyard of the Louvre, was created entirely in black. Part of the set included pieces and nods from past shows including a carousel, escalators, a lift, a fountain, a hotel hallway, a catwalk made of lambskin in the house’s damier check and a large clock which wound back after the show ended, hence creating a deliciously macabre, morbid and noir backdrop for the elegant garments.

Jacobs dedicated the show to “All the women who have inspired me and the showgirl in every one of them…Black to me is the colour of the chicest women in Paris. It’s Juliette Gréco, it’s Françoise Hardy, it’s Édith Piaf in a little black dress, it’s the Left Bank of Paris. It seemed like the chicest way to show all these dazzling textures”.

Feathers, crystal, lace, silk, giant Folies Bergère feather headdresses, jet-embroidered chiffon, sheer bodysuits, leather jackets, heavily embellished gowns, low-slung trousers, skirts in plush, weighty fabrics and also boxy, cuffed denim jeans all attended the sartorial ‘funeral’ to pay their last respect to their master.
The media circus might proclaim the end of an era but this is a positive farewell ending with a powerful statement about beauty, luxury, opulence and irreverence.

Marc Jacobs’s successor has not yet been named although it has been heard on the grapevine catwalk that ‘le petit Nicolas’ could be the frontrunner…

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Trust Jacobs for knowing how to go with a, ahem,…

Happy Friday everyone!


One comment

  • Colinissima

    Another jaw-dropper! Thank you for covering this belle epoque and delighting us with the fabulous ending. Looking forward to what comes next!

    October 4, 2013

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